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View Full Version : How do I remove solder from a board-mounted switch?



superheavydeathmetal
12-17-2018, 08:27 PM
I want to replace this switch, but I don't know how to get the solder off of the board to remove the switch. Does anyone have a clever trick to do this?

I don't really feel like buying a solder wick or solder sucker. I would rather just cut the ribbon and solder it directly to the switch.

Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/g649Og3.jpg

beneharris
12-17-2018, 09:44 PM
Wick or a solder sucker is really the only way. If that is the actual switch you're working on that is hardly any solder. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I just reflow what is there, add a bit more and you're done.

superheavydeathmetal
12-18-2018, 06:17 AM
Thanks, Ben.
What does that mean, to "reflow what is there?"

beneharris
12-18-2018, 10:30 AM
Just essentially tin the pins. What is your goal with the switch?

superheavydeathmetal
12-18-2018, 12:17 PM
To remove it so it can be replaced.

lostinthemasses
12-18-2018, 01:55 PM
Whoever said solder wick and solder suckers are the right tools for the job here is crazy.












Crazy right.

beneharris
12-18-2018, 02:43 PM
AH okay. I thought you were trying to reinstall that one.

Don't bother with solder wick. It sucks ass and never works. Go to ebay or someplace and get a desolder gun. Probably has a bulb on the end. Don't bother with those suckers that aren't powered, they blow, too.

I use one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJSG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00068IJSG&pd_rd_w=lKyR3&pf_rd_p=21517efd-b385-405b-a405-9a37af61b5b4&pd_rd_wg=syzaz&pf_rd_r=AQVC497T7NZ0X2EBXH88&pd_rd_r=3833c97c-02fd-11e9-b54d-a3f4d08ced8f

lostinthemasses
12-18-2018, 03:15 PM
Personally I'd just clip the tabs off both sides of the board if the switch is bad, remove it that way and then use a solder sucker to get the solder out of each slot, the remaining piece of the tabs will come out once there's not enough solder to keep them in place.

superheavydeathmetal
12-18-2018, 05:27 PM
Well, crap. Yeah, I don't see any way of getting the switch off without either buying a solder sucker or cutting off the board.

Thanks for your input, everyone.

metalchurch
12-18-2018, 06:07 PM
Is this for the pussy melter pedal by chance? :)
aka: Repeat Offender.

superheavydeathmetal
12-19-2018, 09:15 AM
No, it's for a 535Q. The switch was bad when I bought it, so I threw it in the basement where it was left to collect dust for like 12 years. Some time ago, I had a hankerin' to play around with a wah, so I dug it out and goofed around with a bit, and now I have decided to try to fix it.

metalchurch
12-19-2018, 01:27 PM
No, it's for a 535Q. The switch was bad when I bought it, so I threw it in the basement where it was left to collect dust for like 12 years. Some time ago, I had a hankerin' to play around with a wah, so I dug it out and goofed around with a bit, and now I have decided to try to fix it.

Believe it or not, I never used a wah. Never tried one...
But this morning on my way to work i was listening to Rain When I Die and i was thinkin damn, I wish I could play that...

superheavydeathmetal
12-20-2018, 12:54 PM
Believe it or not, I never used a wah. Never tried one...
But this morning on my way to work i was listening to Rain When I Die and i was thinkin damn, I wish I could play that...

Ha! Awesome! For me, it's "Dirt," but that is a great one! Damn, now I really want this thing fixed, haha.

EDIT: Now you got me listening to this album. I love Alice in Chains so much.

beneharris
12-20-2018, 01:27 PM
I'm more than happy to repair it for you for free if you send it off to me. If you'd rather just spend the $15 on shipping rather than order a solder sucker, let me know.

superheavydeathmetal
12-20-2018, 02:01 PM
I appreciate the offer, buddy. But, I figure this is something I should learn to do myself.

Do you think it would a complete waste to try one of those non-powered types? I can pick one of up cheap right now just down the road, but one of the powered types I would have to order and wait for it to show up, and it would cost a little more. It looks like the powered type is just a soldering iron with a sucking mechanism, and the sucking mechanism itself isn't powered.

beneharris
12-20-2018, 03:55 PM
Unless you want an exercise in frustration, or have two extra hands I don't know about, I wouldn't bother with non-powered.

You can buy bulbs that have no heat, so you have to heat it up with the iron. That is what you don't want. You want the iron with the bulb on the end.

superheavydeathmetal
12-21-2018, 11:10 AM
Okay! Mission accomplished! I remembered I had a second pair of pliers, so I was able to break the old switch apart without excessive force. I had no idea those switches are filled with grease. That made a bit of a mess, but no biggie. From there I was able to remove the lugs individually. The hardest part was wicking all of the remaining solder away from the holes to get the new swich in, but with a little patience and cleverness, I got it in.

Now, for the first time, I have a working wah pedal. I bought this thing like 12 years ago. From day one, the switch never worked properly, so I threw it in the basement and left it to collect dust. Well, a few months ago I had a hankerin' to play with a wah, so I got it out and goofed with it a bit and decided to fix it. I only just now got around to it, though. It works perfectly, now!

metalchurch
12-21-2018, 11:50 AM
Im a riddle so strong, you can't break me!

leftrb
12-21-2018, 02:01 PM
Im a riddle so strong, you can't break me!

What a great song :)